ROUTE 4: RIDE ON THE DRAGON'S BACK
Tai Tam Group of Reservoirs has more to offer than the reservoir landscape. Trekking on Dragon's Back—named one of the World's Best City Hikes—reveals an awe-inspiring vista that overlooks the cityscape as well as the open ocean. However, this longer excursion requires persistent walking and suits people with hiking experience.
Tai Tam Group of Reservoirs is within overlapping areas of Tai Tam Country Park, Tai Tam Country Park (Quarry Bay Extension) and Shek O Country Park. Shek O Country Park is at the southwest of Hong Kong Island, occupying a total area of 700 hectares—from Pottinger Peak and Mount Collinson in the north, via Wan Cham Shan and Shek O Peak, to D'Aguilar Peak in the south.
Hong Kong Trail is 50km in length and is divided into 8 sections from the Peak to Shek O Tai Long Wan. Shek O Country Park covers Sections 7 and 8; the last leg of Hong Kong Trail that includes the renowned Dragon's Back.
Large-flowered Uvaria (Uvaria grandiflora), as its name suggests, has big crimson flowers that really catch your eye in early summer. In winter, there are the similarly attractive carmine berries of Spotted Ardisia (Ardisia lindleyana) that look like jewels in the woods!
Dragon's Back is the undulating ridge between Wan Cham Shan and Shek O Peak. A most pertinent name indeed. On Shek O Peak observation deck, the highest point on Hong Kong Trail No.8, you can see the spectacular Tathong Channel; and Big Wave Bay and Rocky Bay on either side of a headland at the foot of the slope.
The strong and frequent winds over the ridge, in addition to the thin soil condition on the top, prevents most vegetation growing to a height of over 2 metres. Hence you can find no obstacle in enjoying the sweeping landscape!
To Tei Wan Village is a very old fishing village. This plus Lan Nai Wan Village, Tung Ah Village, Tung Ai Pui Village and Ngan Hang Village are collectively known as The Five Lan Nai Wan Villages. During World War II, the villages were important defence stations, to guard Tai Tam Harbour from landings by the Japanese army. Today, we can still find the relics of lookouts and pillboxes inside the villages.
A catchwater is a waterworks facility used to divert more water into a reservoir in a catchment area. Tai Tam East Catchwater is the longest of the Tai Tam Group of Reservoirs' catchwaters, reaching a total length of 3,687 metres and carrying water from numerous natural streams to the west of Shek O Country Park towards Tai Tam Tuk Reservoir. The catchwater almost follows contours, and has become a good place for morning walkers or joggers to go.
The rich water draws dragonflies too, including species such as Crimson Dropwing (Trithemis aurora), Indigo Dropwing (Trithemis festiva) and Emerald Cascader (Zygonyx iris). Look carefully and you will see the females are busy laying eggs in the water!
Time's wheels run, and so does water! Converging from several natural streams on the mountains of Shek O, the rapids show the power of water in action!
The premium water quality at the catchment area attracts damselflies too—such as the common Black-banded Gossamerwing (Euphaea decorata). Don't mistake them for dragonflies, which generally have a fuller body. Both, however, only inhabit clean water, so they are often chosen as indicator species for water quality.
Lan Nai Wan, or "bad soil bay" in Chinese, is so called because of the sand and silt deposits accumulated by sea currents in the natural inner bay. It is almost impossible to walk on it when the sand and silt are wet.
From here, you can look over to Tai Tam Tuk Reservoir Dam, which is 50 metres in height and has over a hundred years of history. It is now a declared monument. The top of the dam is only 5 metres wide, but is the major transport link between Chai Wan and Stanley. It cannot be widened owing to its structure and antique status. There were some congestion issues before, but after a Smart Traffic Control System was introduced, the situation has been much improved!
Coming to the end of Tai Tam East Catchwater, we will see two white and big active gates, which are used to control the flow and direction in the catchwater. One gate flows towards Tam Tuk Reservoir, while the other directs water to Tai Tam Harbour.
Little things make big things happen. As ordinary and commonplace as the catchwater may seem, it serves to bring water of life for us. How amazing this is!
